By Scooter M. · Last updated September 21, 2026
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There are seven types: the scoop, the pusher, the combination, the ergonomic or bent-shaft shovel, the powered shovel, the ice chopper and the specialist reach tools (roof rakes and car brooms). The question that eliminates most of them is whether you will lift snow or push it — a pusher never lifts, which is why it is the right default on a flat paved driveway and useless on stairs.
Seven types, and the job each one is actually for
These are not trim levels of the same product. Each type removes snow by a different mechanism, and matching the mechanism to your surface and your body is the entire decision. Price barely enters into it.
The seven types at a glance
Lift or push: the question that settles it
Strip away the marketing and there are two mechanisms. A shovel lifts snow and throws it. A pusher keeps the blade on the ground and walks the snow to the edge of the drive. Everything else — blade width, handle shape, material — is a refinement inside one of those two.
The reason this matters more than any other spec is physical. Lifting a loaded shovel puts a cantilevered weight at the end of your arms, and you almost always twist to throw it. That combination — load, reach, rotation — is the motion behind most shoveling injuries, and it is also what spikes cardiac demand. A pusher removes all three, because the load never leaves the ground.
The limit is where the snow ends up. A pusher moves snow sideways, so it needs somewhere to put it. On a 20-by-30-foot driveway that is easy. On a long drive the geometry defeats you well before the far end, and on stairs it is simply the wrong shape. The full head-to-head, with the driveway sizes worked out, is in snow pusher vs snow shovel.
Two things that look like types but are not
Blade material is a second axis. Poly, aluminum, steel and UHMW all appear across several of the types above. Material decides what the tool is safe on and how long the edge lasts, not what the tool is for — a steel-edged pusher and a poly-edged pusher are the same type. Which material suits your surface is in blade materials compared.
Handle length is a fit question, not a type. A shovel that is too short forces a stoop no handle design can undo, and assembled length varies by several inches between tools that are otherwise identical. Match it to your height rather than to a category — snow shovels for your height has the measurements.
How we picked
- Whether the type lifts or pushes, because that single mechanical difference decides most of the injury risk
- What the maker publishes about rated surfaces, quoted rather than paraphrased — a type that marks pavers is not a general-purpose tool
- Published tare weight where it exists, since it is added to every one of the several hundred lifts in a driveway clear
- Blade width against that weight, which is the load-per-stroke trade nobody prints on the box
- Whether the type is a genuine primary tool or a specialist that only makes sense as a second purchase
We have not physically tested these products. We do not own them, we have no lab, and we do not accept free product. Everything above is compiled from published manufacturer specifications, published manuals, published standards and live retailer data - and we tell you which is which on every claim. How we pick.
Quick picks
Ranked against the criteria below. Tap a row to jump to the full write-up; the price button goes straight to Amazon.

Cutting the frozen plow ridge
Hathoro 18-in Steel Blade Snow Shovel
An 18-inch steel blade on a 37-inch wooden D-grip handle — the cheap, honest way to own the one tool that can chop a refrozen plow ridge.
The Bully Tools 92814 that used to hold this slot is no longer available, and Bully Tools no longer sells a steel-bladed snow shovel on Amazon at all — its current snow line is poly and aluminium pushers. This is the closest live equivalent: a flat steel blade on a short wooden D-grip handle, at about the same price.
This is a tool for one job that plastic shovels genuinely cannot do: cutting the compacted, refrozen ridge the municipal plow leaves across the end of your driveway. That ridge is not snow by the time you get to it. It is a slab, and a poly blade skates off it.
A steel blade and a short, stiff handle give you the ability to chop. That capability comes with an obligation: steel is also perfectly capable of chewing the sealant off asphalt, scoring pavers and destroying a composite deck. This is a concrete tool. If your driveway is anything else, buy a poly blade and accept a slower fight with the ridge.
What you give up against the Bully Tools shovel is documentation. The listing states the blade is steel and the handle is 37 inches of wood, and that is all anyone publishes — no steel grade, no thickness, no weight, no origin. Treat the edge as a consumable rather than a lifetime purchase, and keep it off gravel.
The weight is unpublished and it will not be light. If you already have back trouble this is the wrong shovel, and the strain-reducing designs are the right ones. Keep this one for the ridge and use something else for the driveway.
What works
- A steel blade cuts through the crusted plow ridge that stops poly blades dead
- 18 inches is a narrower bite than the 22-inch steel shovels, which is the right direction when the snow is wet and heavy
- A wood handle does not pull the heat out of an ungloved hand the way a bare steel shaft does
- Cheap enough to own purely as the second tool for the ridge
What does not
- A steel blade on pavers, decking or sealed asphalt will leave marks
- Steel is heavy work in wet snow however narrow the blade is
- No published steel grade, thickness or weight, so edge durability and heft are both unknown
- A wood handle is the part that fails if it is stored wet or used as a pry bar
- No published origin or warranty, where the Bully Tools shovel it replaces published both

Wide, flat driveways
The Snowplow Original Snow Pusher, 30 in
A UHMW polyethylene blade that snow slides off rather than sticks to, in the width that actually changes your clearing time.
UHMW — ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene — is the material specification that separates this from a $25 pusher. It is the same family of plastic used for conveyor wear strips and truck-bed liners, chosen for a very low coefficient of friction and high impact resistance at low temperature. The practical consequence is that snow slides off it, including the heavy wet snow that packs solid onto a cheap blade and turns pushing into scraping.
The maker states the edge self-sharpens with use and needs no maintenance, and lists the tool as usable on concrete, blacktop, pavers, decks, roofs and ice rinks. That surface list is unusually broad and is the reason we recommend it where a metal edge would be a liability.
Width is the other half of the argument. A 30-inch blade covers 67 percent more ground per pass than an 18-inch shovel. On a 20-by-30-foot driveway that is the difference between roughly 20 passes and roughly 12 — and each of those passes is a push, not a lift.
It is not a complete answer. Nothing that pushes deals with the plow berm, and on a long driveway you eventually run out of anywhere to push to. Pair it with a shovel, or with a machine.
What works
- UHMW is the reason wet snow releases instead of packing onto the blade
- 30 inches is the width where pass count drops noticeably on a two-car drive
- Rated by the maker for decking and pavers, unlike any steel-edged pusher
What does not
- Costs multiples of a hardware-store pusher
- Still cannot lift, and still cannot cut refrozen crust
- The wider the blade, the more it wanders on uneven ground

Backs that already hurt
Snow Joe Shovelution SJ-SHLV01
A spring-assisted second handle moves the lifting load down the shaft, and at 3.5 lb the shovel itself adds almost nothing to what you lift.
The physics here are simple enough to check without owning one. A snow shovel is a lever, and the load on your lumbar spine depends on how far the weight sits from your hips. A conventional straight-shaft shovel makes your upper hand the fulcrum and your lower back the counterweight. The Shovelution adds a second, spring-loaded grip partway down the shaft, so the lower hand takes the lifting and the spine straightens earlier in the throw.
Snow Joe states the design reduces back strain by up to 30 percent. That is the manufacturer's number and we cannot verify it. What we can verify is the tare weight: 3.5 pounds for an 18-inch blade, which is genuinely low. Weight matters more than it sounds. Twelve pounds of wet snow on a 3.5-pound shovel is a 15.5-pound lift; the same load on a 6-pound steel shovel is 18 pounds, and you are doing it three hundred times.
The blade is poly with an aluminum wear strip. That combination is the right compromise for most driveways: poly is light and does not stick as badly as bare steel, and the aluminum edge keeps the leading lip from rounding off after two seasons. It is not a gravel tool — the wear strip will scoop stone and fling it, and on a composite deck it can leave marks.
The 50-inch assembled height is the real limit. If you are over about six feet you will still bend more than you want, and a longer straight-shaft may serve you better even without the assist. See our straight shaft versus ergonomic comparison for how shovel length maps to user height.
What works
- 3.5 lb is among the lightest 18-inch blades we found published specs for
- The second handle is fixed to the shaft, so the lower hand carries the load instead of your lower back
- Aluminum wear strip on a poly blade — the durable combination at this weight
What does not
- The spring mechanism is one more thing that can fail, and it is not user-serviceable
- 18 inches is a lot of blade for wet snow if you insist on filling it
- 50 inches assembled is short for anyone much over 6 feet

The lightest powered shovel with published numbers
Snow Joe 324E Electric Snow Shovel
A corded 11-inch shovel that publishes the two numbers that matter — 13.6 pounds and 300 lb/min — and a 20-foot throw.
Weight is the specification that decides whether a powered shovel gets used, because you carry it in front of your body for the whole clear, and it is the number most makers in this class decline to print. Snow Joe prints it: 13.6 pounds. That is the lightest published figure of any powered snow tool we can verify is currently in stock.
It also publishes throughput, which is rarer still. Snow Joe states up to 300 pounds of snow a minute through an 11-by-6-inch path, with a throw of up to 20 feet. That is roughly a third of what a 15-amp corded blower moves, which is exactly the right expectation: this is a tool for steps, decks, walkways and short aprons, not a driveway.
A note on the width, because listings disagree. Some retail listings describe this model as clearing a 14-inch path; Snow Joe's own product page says 11 inches, and we go with the maker. Eleven inches is also the useful number, because a standard stair tread is 10 to 11 inches deep.
The cost of being corded is the cord. Snow Joe specifies a 12-gauge extension cord no longer than 100 feet, and a heavy cord trailing around a spinning auger is a genuine trip hazard, particularly for an older user. If that matters more than weight, a cordless tool is the better buy — corded vs cordless works through the distance question.
What works
- 13.6 lb is the lightest published weight of any powered snow tool we can verify is in stock
- Publishes throughput — 300 lb/min — which almost nothing else in this class does
- 11-inch head fits a standard stair tread
- Corded, so there is no battery to buy, charge or replace
What does not
- Corded: a stiff, cold extension cord around a spinning auger is a real trip hazard
- Maker requires a heavy 12-gauge cord, and no more than 100 feet of it
- 6-inch depth means two passes in a real storm
- Far too narrow for a driveway

Moving large volumes of light, dry snow
True Temper 1681400 #14 Aluminum Scoop
A #14 aluminum grain scoop: a 15-by-20-inch blade holding a published 4.5 cubic feet, on a 27-inch ash D-grip handle.
Skip this one
The large scoop is the type most people default to and the type that suits the fewest situations. A big blade encourages big loads — the one we list holds a published 4.5 cubic feet on a 27-inch handle — and a loaded lift-and-twist is the motion behind most shoveling injuries. It earns its place on deep, dry, light snow where volume genuinely is the problem — and nowhere else. If your snow is wet, or your back is the constraint, buy almost any other type on this page.
The True Temper Mountain Mover we used to list here is no longer available, and the only relisting we found carried a generic brand name we could not verify as the genuine article. This entry exists to represent the large-scoop type, and True Temper's #14 aluminum scoop is the clearest live example of that type from the same maker.
The capacity is the point and also the warning. Retail specifications put the blade at roughly 15 by 20 inches and the capacity at 4.5 cubic feet. On light, dry powder that moves a great deal of snow per stroke. On wet snow it is a load most people should not be lifting even once, never mind a few hundred times.
The handle makes it worse. At 27 inches it is very short — this is a Western-pattern grain scoop, designed for shoveling from a truck bed or a bin, not for a standing adult clearing a driveway. You bend to use it, and bending under a loaded blade is precisely the motion that hurts backs.
So it is here as the honest example of its type rather than a general recommendation. If your snow is dry and deep and your back is sound, it moves volume. If either of those is not true, a pusher or an ergonomic shovel is the better buy — types of snow shovels sets out the alternatives.
What works
- 4.5 cubic feet is enormous capacity for light, dry snow
- Aluminum blade outlasts poly and will not crack in deep cold
- Hardwood ash handle with a proper D-grip
- Light for its size at about 4 pounds
What does not
- A 27-inch handle is very short — a standing adult bends to use it
- 4.5 cubic feet of wet snow is a load nobody should lift repeatedly
- Aluminum can mark pavers and does not belong on decking
- It is a grain scoop first; snow is a second job

Breaking bonded ice, without breaking the tool
Bully Tools 7-in All Steel Ice Chopper, D-Grip
A purpose-built chopper rather than a repurposed scraper: all-steel head on an extra-long fiberglass handle with a D-grip, made in the USA.
Once ice has bonded to pavement, a snow shovel is the wrong tool and no amount of technique fixes that. A shovel blade meets bonded ice at a shallow angle and skates over it. A chopper meets it vertically, concentrates your weight into a narrow steel edge, and fractures it. Those are different jobs and they want different tools.
This is the one on this page built for the job rather than borrowed from another trade. Bully Tools puts an all-steel high-strength head on an extra-long fiberglass handle and finishes it with a D-grip, and all three of those choices matter. The steel head takes repeated impact. The extra length means you are standing upright instead of bent over a spot you are about to hit hard. The D-grip is what lets you drive down with your shoulders and body weight rather than steering the tool with your wrists.
The fiberglass handle is the underrated part. Chopping ice sends shock back up the handle on every strike, and a solid steel handle transmits essentially all of it into your hands and elbows. Fiberglass damps some of that. On a long session with a stubborn plow ridge, that is the difference between finishing and quitting.
Bully Tools does not publish a weight, which is a genuine gap on a tool where heft does most of the work — we are not going to estimate one. What they do publish is a limited lifetime warranty against defects across the line, and the tool is made in the USA.
Know what it is not. Seven inches of blade breaks ice up; it does not move it anywhere. Plan on a chopper and then a shovel, and read how to get ice off a driveway before you start swinging, because the order of operations matters more than the tool does.
What works
- Built as an ice chopper, not a floor scraper doing overtime
- The D-grip is what lets you drive the blade down with your body instead of your wrists
- Fiberglass handle absorbs the shock a steel handle sends straight into your elbows
- Steel edge can be brought back with a file when it dulls
What does not
- No published weight, and on a chopping tool heft is most of the performance
- Seven inches is narrow — this breaks ice, it does not clear a driveway
- Wrong tool for any decorative or soft surface
- Costs more than a second snow shovel that you would use more often
Most households need two, not one
This is the conclusion the category resists, because every product page wants to be the only purchase. In practice the types are complementary and the sensible kit is a pair.
- A pusher for the open surface. It does the bulk of the driveway without lifting, which is where both the time and the risk are concentrated.
- A scoop or combination for everything the pusher cannot do. The berm at the road, the corners, the steps, the gap behind the car.
- Then, if it applies to you: a chopper for ice that has already bonded, a roof rake if you get ice dams, and a car broom if you park outside.
Buying a pusher and a cheap combination shovel together usually costs less than one premium do-everything shovel, and it does both jobs properly instead of one job adequately.
Which type, by who is holding it
- A back that already hurts. Pusher first, then an ergonomic or spring-assisted shovel for the rest. Never a large scoop. Snow shovels for a bad back goes through the mechanics.
- An older user. Same answer, plus a hard look at whether a powered shovel removes the lifting entirely — see snow shovels for seniors.
- Wet, heavy snow. Narrower blades, not wider. A wide scoop full of wet snow is an enormous load — best for heavy wet snow.
- A deck, pavers or stamped concrete. The type matters less than the edge material. Poly or UHMW only, and never a chopper.
- A gravel drive. No powered shovel, ever — the auger contacts the ground and throws stone. A soft-edged pusher is the tool.
The types we deliberately leave out
Two categories carry the words "snow shovel" and are not in this taxonomy. Avalanche and backcountry shovels are collapsible packs tools built for digging a buried person out of debris in a hurry; they are short, they are designed to be carried up a mountain, and using one on a driveway would be miserable. Telescoping car shovels are a car tool rather than a driveway tool, and they belong with the car snow tools.
If you arrived here trying to work out which shovel to buy and the answer still is not obvious, the shortest route is to answer one question: is the surface flat, paved and open? If yes, start with a pusher. If no, start with a combination shovel and add from there.
Questions people ask
What are the different types of snow shovels?
What type of snow shovel is best?
What is the difference between a snow shovel and a snow pusher?
Which snow shovel is best for a bad back?
Is a bigger snow shovel blade better?
Do I need more than one snow shovel?
Sources
Next stage
Start with the type most people skip
If your driveway is flat, paved and open, the pusher is the type that does most of the work without ever loading your spine. Here are the ones worth buying.
Keep goingAbout the author
Scooter M.
An enthusiast who is genuinely into this. I read the manuals, compile the published specs, and do the math on door clearances. No lab coat, no test bench, and nothing here is a product I have used - which is exactly why every claim carries a source.
Published by Slate Mill Group, with the Shovel Report team. Published September 14, 2026; last updated September 21, 2026. Editorial policy.
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